Long Bean

LONG BEAN

1. Local name: Kacang Panjang (Vigna sinensis)


2. Planting:

* Soil Preparation:

Field planting

Plough and loosen the soils at 15 cm to 22 cm (6 - 9 inches) deep to allow good growth of the root. Prepare the bed with 1.2 m (4 ft) in width, 25 cm (10 inches) in height and the length will depend on the area condition. The spacing from 1 bed to another is 60 cm (2 ft). Mix the soils of 100 square metre area with 50 kg of chicken dung.


Pot Planting

Mixed soils ( 3 parts of soils, 1 part of chicken dung and 1 part of sand) can be used. Put the mixed soils into the pot until 5 cm from the surface of the pot.

* Planting:

Field planting

Plant 2 seeds in 1 planting hole, in 2 rows with spacing between rows is 60 cm (2 ft) and 45 cm (18 inches) between 1 planting hole to another.

When the seedlings growing, leave only 1 plant in 1 planting hole. It is about 70 gm seeds needed for 100 sq m (1000 sq ft ).


Pot Planting

Plant 2 seeds by 2.5 cm ( 1 inch ) deep. After 2 weeks planted, leave 1 plant only in 1 pot.



* Preparation of stake:

Field Planting



Support the 3-week old seedlings with the stake of 2 m (6.5 ft) long. Place the stake slanting and opposite to each other and tie the top part. Place the sticks on top of the slanting stake horizontally in order to join them together. Ensure that the seedlings will coil round the stake.


Pot Planting


Use the stake of 2 m (6.5 ft) long. Ensure that the seedlings will coil around the stake.

3. Maintenance:

* Watering:

Water the plant either in the field or in the pot every morning and afternoon (every day) except when it is raining.

* Manuring:

Field planting

Apply NPK Blue Special (12:12:17:2) at a rate of 7 kg per 100 sq m (1000 sq ft). Baja ini dibahagi kepada 3 kali pembajaan iaitu pada minggu ke-2, 4 dan 7 selepas menanam.


Pot planting
Apply 1 teaspoon (5 g) of NPK Blue Special (12:12:17:2) per pot per week.

* Weeding:

Need to be done all the time to avoid the plants to compete with the weeds.

4. Pest and Disease Control:
To control the fruit borer , spray the insecticide, like Carbaryl, 0.1% b.a.
For controlling anthracnose, spray with Mancozeb, 0.1% b.a.

5. Harvesting:
Field planting

The Ist harvest will be done 6 weeks after planting. Pluck the beans before it getting mature. Pluck once every 2 days in a period of 6 weeks. Estimated yield is about 100 to 175 kg for 100 sq m with average price from RM4.00 - RM6.00/kg.


Pot planting Estimated yield is 0.5 kg/plant.


Source: Panduan Menanam Kacang Panjang, BP 24/02.06/15R - Jabatan Pertanian Semenanjung Malaysia.

Growing Spinach

"Small Spinach Leaves"

Spinach is a leafy green vegetable that grows best in cool weather. Usually thought of as being packed with iron, spinach is even higher in vitamins A and C, thiamin, potassium and folic acid (one of the B complex vitamins). Spinach, like most dark green leafy vegetables, also contains the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin. Oh, and it tastes great eaten fresh or cooked.

All spinach is grown for its dark green leaves. While there are many different spinach varieties with an assortment of leaf shapes and textures, spinach is usually divided into 2 major categories: Smooth Leaf and Savoy, with darker, thicker, crinkled leaves. Since they’ve been crossbred so much, it’s often hard to categorize them. Small leafed spinach or baby spinach has gained in popularity recently. These are not necessarily immature spinach leaves, but varieties that simply don’t get large.
Latin Name
Spinacia oleracea
Common Name:
Spinach
USDA Hardiness Zone and Exposure
Annual
Exposure
Full Sun / Partial Shade
Days to Harvest
4-6 weeks from seed. You can begin harvesting whenever the leaves are large enough for your taste.
Harvesting
Spinach can be harvested in the cut and come again method of harvesting lettuce. Cut individual leaves, starting with the older, outer leaves, and letting the young inner leaves remain and continue growing for a later harvest. You can also cut down the whole plant, for a larger harvest. If you cut about an inch above the crown or base of the plant, it is very likely the plant will send out a new flush of leaves.
Tips When Using Spinach:

* Spinach, especially the crinkled leaf varieties, hangs onto soil. Wash well before using.

* Spinach leaves are very sensitive to the ethylene gas given off by many fruits. Don’t store in the refrigerator with apples, melons or tomatoes.

* Spinach can be frozen for later use. Wash the leaves well and allow them to dry somewhat before placing in a resealable freezer bag. Then zap them for about 1 minute in the microwave, on high. Allow to cool slightly and place in the freezer. Best used within 3-6 months.


Pests and Problems
Because spinach is grown when the weather is cool and damp, several fungus diseases, like downy mildew (blue mold) and fusarium wilt, can become problems. Space your spinach plants so they get good air circulation and try to keep water off the leaves in the evening. And plant disease resistant varieties, like: 'Melody,' 'Nordic IV,' 'Olympia,' 'Tyee' and 'Wolter'.

Aphids pose a risk because they can spread viruses. Monitor for aphids regularly and hose them off immediately.

Several 4-legged pest, rabbits chief among them, will also raid your spinach patch.
Suggested Varieties
(From the National Gardening Bureau)

* Disease Resistant; 'Melody,' 'Nordic IV,' 'Olympia,' 'Tyee' and 'Wolter'
* Fall Planting: 'Avon,' 'Indian Summer,' 'Melody,' 'Razzle Dazzle' and 'Tyee.
* Over-Winter Planting: 'Bloomsdale Long Standing,' 'Cold Resistant Savoy' and 'Tyee'
* For Containers: 'Baby's Leaf Hybrid' and 'Melody'

* Spinach Alternatives:
o New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) - Close in texture and taste, but in a totally different vegetable family.

o Malabar spinach (Basella alba) - An unrelated vining plant that can take more heat. Pick young or the leaves take on a slimy texture.


Growing Notes:
Soil: Spinach prefers a well draining soil with a neutral pH and won’t be happy in a pH lower than 6.0. Because it is such a fast grower, it is also a heavy feeder. A fertilizer high in nitrogen, the first number on the fertilizer package, will help produce dark, healthy leaves. Fish emulsion and soy meal are good organic choices.

Planting: You can start spinach indoors or direct seeded in the garden as soon as the soil is workable. Spinach grows quite quickly, so don’t start plants indoors more than a 2-3 weeks before you plant to transplant them out. Spinach also matures and goes to seed quickly, so it is better to re-seed every couple of weeks than to try and plant a large crop to harvest over time.

Sow the spinach seeds thinly in rows spaced about 1 -1 ½ ft. apart or simply scatter the seeds in blocks. Cover lightly with soil, firm in place and water well. Keep the soil moist until germination. Once the plants have a grown their true leaves, you can begin to thin the plants to about 6" apart. Of course, you can eat your thinnings.

As the weather warms, spinach plants will bolt more quickly. Expect to stop sowing spinach seeds sometime in May or June, depending on your climate. You can extend the season slightly by planting in the shade of taller plants and keeping your spinach plants regularly watered.

Fall Crops: Spinach also grows well in the cool, short days of fall. Start seeding again in the beginning of August. Keep the seedlings shaded and watered and in the summer heat and they should be ready to harvest beginning in September.

Over-wintering Spinach Plants: You can continue sowing spinach seeds late into the fall season. In warmer climates, you could quite possibly be harvesting well into winter. If the ground freezes before the plants mature, mulch them with hay and leave them be until the temperatures warm again in spring. Remove the mulch and the plants should resume growing, giving you an even earlier harvest.

Growing Spinach in Containers: If space is tight or rabbits are many, you can easily grow spinach in containers. Even a relatively small 10-12" pot or a windowbox will do. Plant as you would in the garden, however you will need to water more frequently, since containers dry out faster.

Interplanting Spinach: I wouldn’t advise tucking spinach in a flower bed, since too many critters will make a snack of it. However, you can take advantage of the shadier spots of a fenced in vegetable garden, where most other vegetable plants would languish. And as mentioned, you can also grow spinach in the shade cast by taller vegetable plants and near plants that will begin spreading out as the spinach finishes its season, like pole beans and corn.

SOURCE:http://gardening.about.com/od/vegetables/a/Growing_Spinach.htm

Growing Basil

Growing Basil - advice on how to grow Basil

Growing Basil is relatively easy as long as the growing environments has suitable light and temperature levels.

Basil is grown for its fragrant tasty leaves that can be added raw to salads, sandwiches or used in cooked dishessuch as the ever popular pasta with tomato and basil sauce.
Preparation

If growing Basil in pots then ensure that adequate drainage is allowed from the base of the pot (line with coarse gravel if necessary).

If growing outside then ensure the soil is well dug over and weed free before sowing.
Before sowing ensure that the compost or soil is moist (water generously the day before sowing).
Sowing

It is vital that Basil is not exposed to the last spring frosts so if sowing outside be patient and sow in late March. Sow at any time if the plant is always to be kept indoors. If sowing inside and planting outside late then you can sow in late february.

Sow the seed thinly and if growing in pots sow enough for a few plants in each pot. Cover the seeds with 1/2 cm of compost and firm gently.

Basil seeds should germinate in about a week and once the seedlings have developed 2 pairs of true leaves then you can thin out the weakest seedlings in each pot, leaving each pots strongest.
Position

Basil should be grown in a position that receives a good amount of sunlight - around 6-8 hours a day. Basil can be grown indoors on a sunny windowsill or outdoors in containers or soil. If growing outside try and position the Basil in a sheltered spot that avoids cold winds.
Soil type

Basil likes a fertile soil that has been welll dug to allow good soil air circulation. Introducing well rotted organic compost or manure into the soil a month or so before sowing will help this.

If growing in pots then a general purpose compost is a suitable soil solution.
Tending

If growing indoors in pots using compost then weeds shouldn't be a problem. If growing outdoors then you can add an organic mulch around the Basil plants to help aid soil moisture retention and prevent weed establishment.

If growing Basil in containers or indoor pots then add a small amount of fertiliser every month or so.
Water every week (more often if growing in outdoor containers or indoors).
When watering your Basil make sure to water at the base of the plant avoiding showering the leaves and stems.

Be sure to pinch out any flowers that appear. This will help preserve the plants flavour and also channel the plants energies into more leaf growth.
Harvesting

Basil is a pick and come again crop. It is best to pick a few leaves off a number of plants than picking all the leaves off one plant. Harvest the top most leaves first. Basil will grow all year round indoors but outdoor plants should be dug up and brought indoors before the first fall frosts if you want to extend the plants growing season into the winter.

Once harvested Basil can be frozen for later use.

Basil can be used in fresh or dried form. To dry Basil cut the stems at soil level and dry them in a dehydrator or hang bunches of stems up to air dry in a warm room, this should take about a week. Once the leaves are dried you can remove them from the stems and then store them in a dry airtight container for up to 12 months.
Varieties

The most popular variety of Basil is Sweet Basil and this is the variety most often used in cooking. Other varieties include Purple Basil (purple leaves) and Lemon Basil (a mild lemon flavour).

SOURCE:

Growing Broccoli

Best climate for growing broccoli
Broccoli will tolerate frosts of 20°F (6.5°C) and likes daytime temperatures around 50-70F° F (10-20°C) and certainly no higher than 80°F (26°C), or it will bolt to seed.

Certain varieties of broccoli are better for warmer areas than others, so check what grows locally or ask at the nearest plant shop for the ideal plants for your garden. Basically, no matter when or how you grow broccoli, there's no getting around the fact that when it matures in the chillier months, it simply tastes the sweetest.

When to plant broccoli
Depending on your climate, sow seeds early to mid summer, which will take 4-6 weeks before ready for transplanting, or plant seedlings out no later than late summer. Broccoli needs to develop a good size with strong leaf growth before the cool weather sets in. If you get your broccoli growing early enough without suffering excessive heat, it will be ready for use in late autumn and winter.

That's one way to grow broccoli, but you can also plant seedlings mid winter to early autumn and get a crop to pick before the high summer temperatures arrive. Ensure the winter sun reaches them for 4 or more hours a day.

Growing broccoli seeds and seedlings
You will not need many plants as each plant will produce continuously over time, but do consider successive plantings as you don't want it all to mature at the same time. Even better is to grow different varieties so they mature at different times. As a rough guide, 8-10 plants are enough for the average family over a season. Allow 3-4 weeks between plantings to space the harvest over time.

Approximate weeks to harvest:
# Broccoli seeds will take 11 to 15 weeks, but sometimes up to 20 weeks.
# Broccoli seedlings will take 8 to 12 weeks from transplant until harvest time, depending on the variety.

It's better to sow your broccoli seeds in punnets or trays first and transplant later. Why? Because the seeds are small and round, so tend to roll away to lostville if you're trying to put them in the ground! Tiny new seedlings are gourmet breakfasts for slugs and snails, so get them established first where you can keep an eye on them before sending them out to the big bad world.

Prick out the less hardy plants as the broccoli seeds sprout. In about 5 weeks, once they are 7-10cm high (3-4"), or have at least 4 main or true developed leaves, they can be planted into your garden bed. Seedlings should be placed at least 45cm (18") apart for most varieties, and with the dwarf varieties, space 30cm (1ft) apart. Water well and don't let plants dry out completely from now on.

Soil preparation before growing broccoli
Try and rotate brassica crops, such as broccoli, with root or climbing crops each year or every 2-3 years. If you don't have the space, don't worry if you have to plant broccoli in the same area as last time as long as you did not have diseases, such as club root. See Broccoli pests and diseases

Although broccoli like to have uninterrupted growing with no prolonged dry spells, they also dislike their roots in bad drainage, so if necessary, have your broccoli growing in wide mounds. They love lots of organic compost added the soil, and don't mind if it's even partially composted beforehand. Compost made with animal manure or some well rotted chicken manure gives good levels of nitrogen which broccoli need.

Nutrient requirements for growing the best broccoli
Broccoli is a leafy green plant so growing it fast in fertile soil is a must. To really keep broccoli growing well and producing like a champ, particularly once the first signs of florets form, regular top ups every 3 or so weeks of organic fertiliser is appreciated... remember it's hungry and in a hurry.

Compost tea, especially made with added chicken manure is excellent for growing broccoli. If you can get alfalfa meal, this is another useful nitrogenous fertiliser.

When growing broccoli, put down a layer of mulch such as straw, leaves etc, or a couple of inches (5cm) of grass clippings. This will help keep the soil cool and moist which broccoli prefer.

Broccoli varieties
Broccoli varieties are more about producing florets, sometimes making up a large head, sometimes more individual loose florets. On the other hand, cauliflower varieites form single large heads.

Debates rage over whether certain plants are cauliflower, broccolini, or broccoli varieties. What's called something in one country is called another somewhere else. Holi moli broccoli!

Here's what I know... and like Forest Gump says, that's all I have to say about it...

broccoli varieties-large headed green Large-headed Broccoli Varieties

These are the popular garden broccolis, big heads of dark grey-green, tightly clustered florets. Easily produce smaller side florets after main head has been cut off.



purple sprouting broccoli varieties Sprouting Broccoli Varieties

There are green and purple sprouting varieties. These are loose bushy types and can be picked for long periods.

They prefer milder winters than other varieties.



Romanesco broccoli varieties Romanesco Broccoli Varieties

A large and beautiful broccoli variety, with an apple-green spiral head made up of smaller spirals. It's more like a cauliflower, but slightly looser and with a pointed head. Particularly tasty.



Broccoli varieties - broccoli Raab Broccoli Raab

This is an old Italian variety which has immature flower buds on loose leafy stalks. A fast growing broccoli and spicy flavoured. Great for Italian and Asian stir frys.


Harvesting Broccoli
Now you know all about growing broccoli, what about harvesting, eating and storing it?

Although it is from the same family as the cabbage, broccoli is grown for its edible, immature flower heads.

Broccoli love having their heads cut off... they will grow more heads for you — little bitty tasty ones.

When the central main heads are still compact and darkish, which is usually up to 25cm (10") wide... off with their heads about 12-20cm (5-8") down the stem and just above where some main leaves join the stem.

You really only have less than a week of optimum opportunity to do this first broccoli harvest. If you leave slicing off the heads too late, that is when the florets loosen and there are signs of yellow flowers forming, they will be coarser with a strong, but not such a nice flavour to eat. An exception is the sprouting broccoli whereby the florets are looser and sometimes have a few yellow flowers just beginning to open.

Always cut the heads and florets off the stem with a sharp knife and on an angle so rainwater cannot collect and rot the remaining stem.

Leave the stems with the remaining leaves on, continue to water and new florets will sprout out from the leaf axils. Keep cutting these sweet delicacies off to eat and the plants will keep producing, often up to 2 more months.

Pick the tender leaves and also the flowers when they come, these are all edible and full of goodness.

Growing Broccoli — then eating it!
Garden-fresh broccoli is sweet and tender and is excellent eaten raw. Cut into bite sized pieces and throw into salads. Marinating for an hour or two in fridge with an equal mix of raw apple cider vinegar, lemon juice and olive oil is nice. Try balsamic vinegar sprinkled over raw or cooked broccoli too.

If you want your broccoli slightly softer, maybe for dips or salad, pour boiling water over cut pieces and leave for 2 minutes, then rinse with cold water. For cooking, steam for 4-5 minutes or before it goes mushy. For tougher broccoli, peel the stems if they are too chewy.

What if your broccoli has gone to flower? Whether it's an early season mistake, or it's the end of the season... the flowers you don't need for seeds... eat 'em. Let the flowers open and they are edible, in salads, with fish, and their petals sprinkled like confetti over pasta and other dishes.

How to store broccoli: To store fresh broccoli, put in veggie crisper in fridge or seal in plastic bag and keep in fridge. It tends to loose its crispness and freshness in the refrigerator after about 5 days, but will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Freezing: If you have gone overboard with growing broccoli and end up with more than you can use; cut them it into bite sized florets and pieces of peeled stem and blanch them in boiling water for 3 minutes. Plunge into cold water — ice cold if possible, then freeze it for use later. Best used within 6 months.

SOURCE:http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/growing-broccoli.html

Growing Garlic

Choosing your garlic
There are two main kinds of garlic. (Actually, there are three. The third kind, 'elephant garlic', Allium ampeloprasum, has absolutely enormous cloves, but has no garlic flavor worth mentioning.) The first is 'Common garlic', which is the usual white skinned supermarket type plus the silverskin types generally used for braiding and available at farmers markets; and 'Hard neck garlic', which is much less common.

Common garlic Allium sativum - Soft neck Garlic, Italian Garlic, Silverskin Garlic. There are two main 'types' of common garlic - the so-called 'artichoke' garlics we buy in the supermarket, and the 'silverskins', with either very white, or white blushed rose outer skins. The bulbs of the common 'artichoke' types outer parchment is white, or off-white. There is usually a row of decent sized cloves around the outside, and irritatingly smaller, thinner cloves in the interior (altho' there are varieties with few, but quite large, cloves). As we all know, removing the skin from these cloves is not easy. The bulb is wrapped in many layers of parchment, which continues up to form a soft parchment like neck ideal for using to braid all your bulbs together on a string to hang in the kitchen! This garlic keeps well. Silverskins have the strongest flavor, and have numerous small cloves. They are very white, and the neck is sturdy and well suited to plaiting. The 'Creole' sub-group of the silverskin type is atypical, because they have only 8-12 cloves, are mild, and have a rose colored outer skin.

Hardneck Garlic Allium sativum var.ophioscorodon - Serpent Garlic, Stiffneck garlic, Rocombole Garlic, 10 clove garlic, Top Setting Garlic, Bavarian Garlic, Porcelain Garlic, Purple stripe garlic.
These garlics have a stiff, sometimes thick, neck, usually with fewer, even sized cloves arranged around the central 'neck'. Cloves number from four to twelve or so, depending on the variety. They are generally less reliable in changeable weather conditions than soft necked garlics, with the exception of the rocombole type.
The most distinctve of the three main hardneck types is 'Rocambole' Garlic. This garlic is similar to common garlic, but has two important differences. First, unlike common garlic, it throws up a flowering stem, called a 'scape'. Second, the bulb has relatively little outer parchment. This last difference has a positive and a negative side. On the negative side, the individual cloves are often exposed, can be knocked off the bulb by rough handling, and can wither a bit after long storage. In addition, the bulbs don't look anything like as attractive as bulbs of common garlic. On the positive side, they are a dream to remove the skin from -it is trivially easy- there is only one ring of decent sized cloves arranged around the woody central flower stalk and no smalls or thins, and it keeps almost as well as common garlic if stored carefully. The tall flowering scape , for reasons of its own, makes a twisting loop as it unfurls it's 'flower' head (which contains not flowers, but tiny little bulbils). Thus it's alternative name, 'serpent garlic'. Clipping the flower stalk off early on significantly improves bulb size.
It needs a cool winter and spring, and simply will not suceed in hot areas.
Purple Stripe Garlic has very white, thick, bulb skins, streaked with bright purple. They are quite a variable group, with some strongly flavored, some mild, some mid season,some late maturing. They store fairly well.
Porcelain Garlic includes varieties with few (4-8), large fat cloves covered in a very thick, very white bulb skin. The taste is usually strong. They store moderately well if free of disease.
Porcelain image at Filaree Farms
Varieties
Be guided by local varieties. But make sure they genuinely are local! But even within a broad climatic region, there is sometimes enough climatic variation with such 'micro climate' influencing factors as altitude, proximity to the sea, mountain rain shadow effects, and so on that a variety that is reliable in one location may be marginally reliable in another. Advice of knowledgeable local home gardeners may be the key to variety choice.
California Early and California Late need cold exposure of around 6 weeks below an average of about 4C/40F for proper bulbing and clove development. It is the classic, white skinned garlic 'artichoke garlic' of the supermarkets.
New York White (syn.Polish White) White parchment, slightly blushed with purple, said to be relatively disease tolerant, and better adapted to temperate than warm temperate areas.
Creole This silverskin garlic is quite a late maturing variety from Central America ( also grown in the Imperial Valley of California). It is adapted to heat and dry conditions, and doesn't do well in more humid and cooler areas. The cloves have a deep purple skin.
German extra hardy A hard neck garlic with a white outer parchment and red skin on the cloves. Noted for it's vigor, strong resistance to winter heaving in temperate areas, and good storage ability.
Roja A fairly common home garden rocambole type with attractive, brownish-red, medium-sized bulbs.
Continental garlic Is more of a generic term covering various white or purple striped hard neck types adapted to more Mediterranean growing conditions.

Artichoke garlic varieties JJJJ Gourmet Garlic Gardens have a very good, considered page on the 12 or so varieties of 'artichoke' garlic (the common supermarket type) they sell, the pros and cons of each variety.

Garlic types, history, and virtues JJJJJ Gourmet Garlic Garden have a photo-illustrated guide to the kinds of garlic in general - both hard neck and soft neck garlic, and their taste differences and more.

Simoneti garlic at Garlic Foods (a common garlic type from the SSR Georgia)

Metechi image (purple stripe type) at Gourmet Garlic

Creole image at Garlic Foods

Chinese purple garlic image at Garlic Foods. This is an extremely hot garlic with characteristics intermediate between soft and hardneck types.

Asian Rose image at Gourmet Gardens. (An early, very hot cultivar.)
Prepare the soil
Ideally, a deep, fertile, very well drained soil is needed. Add -and incorporate well-a good dressing of a general garden fertilizer before or at the time of sowing. Your soils pH must be above 6.0.( Ideally, pH 6.5 -7.0). Unless you are on limestone country, most soils will benefit from a liming at least a month or so before planting. Lots of well rotted compost is beneficial, if you can get it.
When to sow
warm temperate areas - generally speaking, it can be planted in autumn through to early winter. Under warm temperate climatic conditions autumn planted garlic will remain dormant for a few weeks, then develop roots and a shoot. With the onset of the cold of winter growth is fairly slow until temperatures warm in spring. The cold of winter is needed to initiate the side buds that will ultimately grow and swell to become cloves (and in some types, to initiate the flower bud). The lengthening days of spring are the signal for the initiated but undeveloped side buds to start forming into cloves. It is possible to sow in early spring and get a reasonably good harvest, but everything is against you - wet, difficult to work soil; no early root growth; less exposure to winter chill. Early Spring is possible, but definitely a second choice.

Temperate areas- plant after the first good frosts of autumn. Spring planting is possible in the higher latitudes, as the longer day lengths promote bulbing, but the shorter season means the bulbs are often smaller. Autumn garlic will produce roots, but either no, or short, top growth. If the garlic sprouts have emerged, they will survive freezes and snowfalls, but they should be mulched heavily (about 15 cm/6 inches) to prevent heaving. Pull the mulch aside in spring. Autumn planted garlic will have strong roots by winters icy grip, and these roots will help prevent the 'seed' being pushed out of the ground as the soil alternately freezes and thaws ('frost heave').

How to sow
Choose the biggest and fattest seed cloves, and sow them root end down, standing erect, and far enough in the soil that they are anything from just buried to being 25 mm/an inch or so under the soil surface. Put them about 100 mm/4 inches apart.
The tricks of growing satisfactory bulbs
Home grown garlic can be disappointing- small bulbs, bulbs with only one big soft clove, no bulb. The causes of unsatisfactory production come down to the quality of the 'seed', growing conditions, the variety, the vagaries of the season, and disease.

give the best possible drainage
It is important to have a free draining soil. While cloves put in early in winter will have a longer cold treatment and will respond to lengthening days more quickly than those put in later, there is always a risk of the cloves rotting in a cold wet soil. Especially if the cloves are of dubious quality, or if you have a history of disease problems in your own saved seed cloves. Commercially, the seed cloves are often soaked in rugged fungicides prior to sowing to minimize this problem, but this is not an option for most of us. Excellent drainage is very important to give the edge on climate and disease.

give your plants an unreasonable advantage
Your garlic is likely in a race against root rotting disease and stem and leaf diseases. The better the leaf growth before bulbing starts, the bigger the bulb and the cloves will be. This translates to 'early care pays dividends later'. And also at the main growing stage, give your garlic every advantage to grow more than the disease will damage. Provide a free draining soil by amending it with sand, potting mix, well finished compost, leaf mould, or whatever. Consider a raised bed, or large tub culture. Before sowing, beef up the nutrient status of your soil by working in a complete fertilizer (5N - 10P - 10K) at about 225gms/half a pound per 7.5 Metres/25 feet of 30 cm/12 inch wide row. Once they have started growth in spring, give them regular - say fortnightly - very light side dressings of urea (or other high nitrogen fertilizer), spread 100 mm/6 inches either side of the plants. Liquid manures are also beneficial. Garlic competes poorly with weeds. Keep them as close to meticulously weeded as is possible. Be careful with the hoe- there is nothing more tragic than a beautifully growing garlic plant sliced off at soil level by a hurried hoe! If the weather is dry, mulch them to conserve water. Dry soil when the leaves are developing affects the yield quite badly, so water them well and regularly in dry periods.

either buy clean seed stock or provide ideal growing conditions
If you grow garlic regularly, and especially if you keep your own seed cloves, you will almost inevitably end up with a greater or lesser degree of disease in your soil and seed stock. This shouldn't prevent you from growing garlic, be we do need to accept that we have to put extra effort into keeping the plants in best possible condition when they start growing, and accept that is very wet years we may lose the lot. Even if you have disease in your soil, it is probably best to by clean seed cloves every year, as they will get a good start before becoming infected. Rocombole can usually be relied on to produce something, even when your common garlic is a total loss. Garlic that is water stressed in it's early growing period can 're-vernalise', which means the plant in effect 'cancels' the side buds that were about to grow into cloves, and produces a single fat, low quality clove instead. Cold winters largely prevents this phenomenon, so it is chiefly a problem for warm temperate areas. The same thing can happen if the plant is exposed to unseasonably high spring temperatures-29C/85F or above. The solution is keep the garlic well watered if there is a dry spell in spring, mulch to keep the soil, at least, cool, and keep your plants growing strongly.

use the most suitable variety
Some garlic strains will just not bulb satisfactorily in your area. Garlic varieties are adapted to a fair range of day lengths, intensity of cold, and accumulated heat conditions. Don't expect all varieties to do well in your area. 'Wrong' varieties may grow very well, but not bulb properly, re-growing from the barely formed new season cloves without the top dying back and without forming a proper bulb at all. Try locally sold seed cloves. They may well be- but certainly not certain to be- the best variety for your climate. In mild and cool climate areas 'rocombole' garlic is far more forgiving of the vagaries of climatic conditions than common garlic. Equally, in hot areas, the 'creole' silverskin types are far more reliable than most other garlics.

Harvesting
The plants are ready to harvest when the foliage has died off, or mostly died off. If it is very wet near harvest time, consider lifting them a bit earlier and drying them under cover. Left in wet soil, the outer parchment often rots. And if there is disease in the root plate, it may develop too far and cause the bulb to fall apart when it is lifted. Rocambole is almost always ready to harvest a month or so before common garlic. But the state of the foliage is the indicator, not any particular date. An experienced Italian American home garlic grower passes on a valuable tip for refining the estimate of when to harvest common garlic-


"Once the top part of the plant has begun to turn brown, pull one of them and peel back the sheaths one at a time. My grandfather liked to wait until there were 2 sheaths, but I'm more comfortable with 3 to 4 sheaths. The problem with only watching the top part of the plant is that when it's very wet or very dry, the sheaths can reduce much faster than in other years.

For example, it was very wet this year in Pittsburgh, PA, where I live and garden. The plants had just started to turn brown when I checked the first one. It was already down to 3 sheaths!!! You might want to warn people what happens if they wait too long - the garlic opens up and it's nearly impossible to get out of the ground. (And the garlic you do find is already starting its growth cycle, so it doesn't keep.)" - RC, Pennsylvania. USA

Wash the bulbs, especially the roots, and leave them for a week or so to dry- so long as it is fine. If you live in a hot climate area, you will have to dry them out of the sun, or your precious bulbs will sunburn. If the weather is dubious, dry your garlic under cover. When the bulbs are dry, you can trim off the roots, scuff off the outer discolored parchment, and braid your garlic for storage.

If you intend to keep your own clove seed, select the biggest and best bulb. Leave the cloves on the bulb, and at planting time select only the best cloves to use as seed cloves. But store your seed bulbs in a relatively cool, dry place-heat in storage can cause the seed cloves to develop into a plant that produces a single large clove , rather than a normal multi clove bulb. Prolonged very low temperatures can also disrupt proper growth.

Storage
Store garlic in a dry place- the kitchen is OK, and towards autumn (if there is still some left!) check for soft bulbs (rotting internally), and sign of insect damage. Throw out damaged bulbs. The ideal storage conditions are temperatures of around 10C/50F, dry, and well ventilated.

SOURCE:http://www.naturalhub.com/grow_vegetable_type_garlic.htm

How To Grow Pumpkins

Pumpkin Seeds
There's an old saying: To be a successful gardener, grow pumpkins. With this truth, you only need one thing to produce pumpkins: seeds! Still, there are always questions. Surely there's more to it than just placing the seed in the ground ... What about the fine points? Herewith are a few questions and answers. They are designed to supplement the tiny print on the back of most pumpkin seed packets.

What kinds of pumpkins grow the best?

Almost any pumpkin seed ultimately will produce pumpkins. The important question is: what kind of pumpkins do you want to grow?
Pumpkins The traditional Jack O'Lantern is a particular variety officially known as the Connecticut Field Pumpkin. They are usually between 10 and 20 pounds each (though they can grow as big as 50 pounds) and have a bright orange color and the classic pumpkin shape. It is the picture-book pumpkin and the one produced by most commerical growers. Looks aside, the Connecticut Field variety is plain-tasting, not especially sweet, and somewhat watery for pie. Fortunately there is a vast and varied population in the pumpkin world. Some of their names bring to mind wrestlers or race horses: Baby Boo, Munchkin, Spooktacular, Big Max, Cinderella, Lumina, Atlantic Giant ... and there are many more. Pumpkin varieties come in a wide range of potential sizes (from a few ounces to over 500 pounds) and in several colors (ranging from white to pink to red to traditional orange). The big ones require more garden space, but the leaves and flowers of the different types look remarkably similar.
Which one to plant? Be my guest. They are all very willing to enjoy your nurturance. I like to grow several kinds in my United Pumpkin Nations Patch! They all seem to get along quite well.
It is exciting and satisfying to grow seeds that have been saved from last year's pumpkins. But there are a few uncertainties to be noted. First, be sure the seeds were dried in the air, not the oven. Also there is a possibility that the seed will produce a hybrid -- a cross between a pumpkin and another kind of squash. These are called Squmpkins and their color, size, and shape are unpredictable. Still, they are exotic, weird, and one of a kind.

Pumpkin FieldWhere, when, and how should the seeds be planted?

Where: Pumpkins love a sunny spot -- the more sun the better. Choose a place that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day.
When: Seeds can be planted directly in the garden when the days consistently reach into the low 70's and the spring rains have tapered off. In colder climates, the seeds can be started indoors and transferred to the garden when the weather warms. Most pumpkins require 110 to 140 frost-free growing days. The amount of time depends mainly on the variety, the climate, and the number of daylight hours during the summer days.
How: Pumpkins seeds typically are planted in the middle of small hills or mounds that are about three feet in diameter. Surround each hill with a moat (about 4 inches wide and 4 inches deep) to help contain water around the roots. Plant 4 to 5 seeds in a circle in the middle of the hill, and space the seeds about 6 to 8 inches apart.
Thankfully, pumpkin seeds know which way is up, regardless of how they are set in the ground. Traditionally, the seed is laid on its side, narrow edge skyward. Soaking the seeds the night before planting will soften the outer shell and make sprouting easier and faster. But don't let this little step hold you up if you are suddenly ready to plant. Cover the seeds with about an inch of soil to block out light and hide them from hungry birds. The soil should be loosely packed and kept moist but not wet; think of it as a well-squeezed, damp sponge.
Pumpkin Dicot During the seed stage, water gently with a sprinkling can to avoid washing away the covering soil. Don't peek under the soil or you may disturb the delicate root hairs that are forming. After 7 to 14 days, the seed sprout cracks the soil, and within a day, two succulent oval baby leaves break through and unfold like a pair of opening hands which soon look like low flying butterflies.
If you are planting more than one hill of pumpkins, the hills should be 10 feet apart. Once the seedlings are established (two weeks after they have sprouted), thin to two or three of the strongest and largest young plants per hill. This may take some courage, and it may seem impossible to make the right choice. Take heart in the promise of abundance. In the pumpkin garden, it will surely be fulfilled.

How much room do pumpkins need?

Pumpkin plants are vigorous vines and love to sprawl. A single vine can grow as long as 30 feet, sending out many vine shoots all along the way. Looking down from an airplane, it will appear as a carpet of lush green leaves.
Does this mean pumpkins can't get along with their neighbors? Absolutely not. The vine can be pruned, trained, and redirected to live harmoniously with other plants. Pumpkins are often planted at the edges of a corn and bean patch. The corn supports the climbing beans, and the pumpkin vines are trained to creep among the corn stalks, The huge leaves of the pumpkin plant serve as a floating mulch that holds down weeds and keeps the soil moist. This classic Native American combination -- sometimes called the three sisters -- not only grows well together, but their blended tastes and textures make a delicious main course.
Pumpkin Roof While pumpkins usually keep low to the ground, they can be encouraged to grow where other plants might never venture. I've seen them climb over shrubs, up fences and onto roofs. They do this with the help of their tendrils -- curly grabbers that develop like a hand at every leaf node. Tendrils are touch sensitive and will tightly curl around any waiting objects in the path of the vine -- sticks, weeds, plants, anything that has a loose end. The tendrils keep the vine stable as it reaches out across the garden. If you train a pumpkin to grow up and onto a flat or slightly sloped shed roof, it is like adding another floor to your garden. Direct the growing vine to the side of a building and use 3" galvanized nails (drive them in about half an inch) as tendril handles. With your guidance, the tendrils will curl around the nails and ultimately the vine will reach and sprawl along the roof. When pumpkins develop on the vine as it climbs the building, tack up old nylon stockings as slings to support the swelling fruit. Or pinch off the baby pumpkins until the vine reaches the roof. Then let them flourish on their penthouse porch. Pumpkins on the roof! Your neighbors will drop their jaws as they scan the horizon.

Many PumpkinsShould nutrients be added to the soil?

All the pumpkin seeds packets say: "Plant in rich soil". But how do you know if your soil is rich enough? If the spot you've chosen for your pumpkin patch has traditionally grown lots of weeds, then it definitely has something to offer. But is it rich enough? Soil, like bank accounts, can always use at least a little bit more. The question then becomes: What to add? Compost and aged manure are often recommended. Check with a local garden center for packaged products. Pumpkins are considered "heavy feeders" and do well with a little extra nourishment. One nutrient source that works well and is reasonably priced has the dismaying name "fish emulsion". It is a concentrate of fishy by-products, rich in minerals, that smells a little like low tide. Add a few glug-glugs (about a quarter of a cup) to a gallon of water and sprinkle it on each pumpkin mound every three of four weeks. It is definitely a power booster. There are many "miracle" goods on the market. They promise a large supply of big pumpkins while posing the question of pushing versus encouraging the natural process.

What about watering?

Pumpkin Water If pumpkins could speak, their first words would probably be: "Gimme a drink." Between 80 to 90% of every pumpkin is water; and water is an essential medium for bringing nourishment to the entire plant. Fortunately, the plant has a built-in water-gathering and water-conservation system: The huge leaves are a hovering mulch, mediating ground and sky, shading the soil, keeping it moist, and inhibiting competition from weeds. They also are exquisitely designed to draw nourishment from the sun and guide water to the base of the plant. The question is not whether to water pumpkins, but when and how much. A major factor is the kind of soil in the patch. Sandy soil needs more water than soil with high deposits of clay. In either case, the rule of thumb is: turn off the water when puddles appear; and wait till the soil is dry on top before watering again. It is best to water the plant at the roots rather than sprinkling from above. Drip systems and soaker hoses are efficient, reasonably priced, and easy to install. Check with any local garden shop or hardware store for supplies

How do pumpkin plants develop and reproduce?

About a week after the two baby leaves appear, the first "true" leaf, sporting jagged edges, starts to grow from the center of the young sprout, providing a glimpse of the plant to come. After three true leaves are established, the pumpkin plant moves into wild and crazy leaf and root development that lasts about eight weeks. At its peak, the vine can grow as much as 6" a day.
Pumpkin Female Flower Ten weeks after planting, the first flowers suddenly appear between leaves and tendrils. Each flower blooms for only one day. They start to unfurl just before dawn, and during a four hour period, they open into luxurious velvet bowls. By mid-day, they are on a slow course of folding in on themselves; and by dusk, they are sealed forever.
Every pumpkin plant has two kinds of flowers -- male and female. Both are golden yellow, suggesting the color of the fruit to come. On the surface, males and females look quite similar. However, with a little observation you can begin to tell them apart. The male flowers, which appear first, sit on long thin stems and are more plentiful than females. The females sit closer to the vine and rest like queens on fuzzy round thrones -- baby pumpkins in waiting.
In pumpkin land, the bees are the matchmakers, gathering pollen from the center of the males and depositing it inside the female flower while glutting themselves on sweet nectar. The bees are so busy with their gathering and guzzling, they are oblivious to onlookers and very unlikely to sting. So, if you are inclined, arise early in the morning, get out your binoculars and have a close look. It is like watching the California gold rush: greedy miners discovering the motherlode. Between watching bee visits, take a deep breath, and the delicate fragrance of the flower will add a new reward to your careful peeking.
Bee and Flower Some avid growers (and seed "manufacturers") imitate the bees and pollinate the pumpkins manually in order to control and develop certain traits. The process is quite simple: use a small artist's brush to gather pollen from the males; carefully carry it to a chosen female and deposit the pollen by "painting" the center of her flower. To keep out all other would-be pollinators, place a small paper bag over the female flower and secure it with a rubber band. Not nearly as exciting as watching the bees, but interesting in a scientific sort of way.

Should pumpkin plants be pruned?

Pumpkins plants are vigorous growers. Almost from the beginning, they are like adolescents -- bursting with energy, going places without permission, and displaying their amazing abilities over and over again.
Pumpkin vines withstand pruning quite well. Properly done, it strengthens the plant and helps it thrive. In most cases, the plants require some cutting if only to keep them from growing into your kitchen. Every pumpkin plant has a main and a secondary vine that usually grow in opposite directions. Each of these two vines produce shoots (or tertiary vines) which can be selectively pruned as the plant develops. It is best to clip when these new side shoots begin to develop. The plant will leak or bleed a little when it is clipped, but it seals over quickly. The amount of pruning usually depends on how much garden space is available. Trimming the plant is definitely necessary to train the vine to run in a long narrow line along the edge of a garden and to keep the plants from crawling over each other and their neighbors.
When pruning plants, wear long pants and gloves: the vines are prickly. As you walk through the garden to check on pumpkins or to tame runaway vines, remember that there are roots all along the vine that spread out like a fancy hairdo just beneath the top few inches of soil. It is best to walk on boards or tiles -- or at least to follow the same path each time. This will help the soil remain soft and loose and keep the roots "fluffy" so they can take in water and nutrients.
Pumpkin Vines In addition to pruning the vines, some gardeners prune the fruit -- selecting a few for special attention and removing the rest. This population control concentrates the energy of the plant and yields larger but, of course, fewer pumpkins. Wait for the pumpkins to reach grapefruit size before pruning. Even without selective pruning, all baby pumpkins do not necessarily grow to maturity and may suddenly yellow and shrivel on the vine. Perhaps they were not fully pollinated or maybe they were poorly located on the vine, competing for nourishment with a more developed neighbor. The harsh truth is that not every tiny pumpkin is destined to make it to the end of the season.

What about danger and disease?

Pumpkin plants are hardy and strong, but like all living things, they are vulnerable to outside forces. In the early stages, the main danger is frost. If the young plants are in the ground and the nights threaten to become very cold, protect the seedlings with inverted clay flower pots or a small cold frame, removing the covering each morning. Strong wind is another threat to the sprawling plant. The tendrils help to hold the vine down, but sometimes it is necessary to add anchors: u-shaped stakes made from coat hangers work very well or criss-cross 18" bamboo sticks over the vine.
As the season progresses, many insects and critters will visit. Almost all are friendly and many are simply on their way to another land. Even snails seem to overlook pumpkins, preferring, instead, less fuzzy fare. In different regions, pumpkins are variously plagued by gophers and moles, vine borers and beetles, aphids and mildew and other unwelcome visitors and conditions that threaten their security. When these forces find their way into your patch, they will need to be discouraged. Garden books offer a wide range of "solutions" ranging from harmless but effective soaps to heavy duty poisons. Throughout the season, keep an eye out for any irregularities, especially in the leaves (both the top and bottom). To diagnose the problem, take a sample to the garden center, another Pumpkin Budknowledgeable gardener, or the library (where the best books have pictures of squash plants and their problems). As with your own health, early detection is the best way to prevent a major problem and usually requires the least intervention. My own preference is to keep the patch as organic as possible. A healthy well-fed plant, basking in sunlight, unburdened by competition from weeds, and properly watered has the best chance of successfully resisting danger as well as recovering from attack.

What should be done to take care for the developing fruit?

The basic rule for taking care of the developing pumpkin fruit is to handle it as little as possible. At the same time, there are a few widely practiced interventions. First, to encourage the classic pumpkin look (round as opposed to lop-sided), adjust the fruit so that it's bottom or flower-end is sitting squarely on the ground. This pumpkin "chiropractics" should be done after the fruit is well-established -- usually a month after its appearance and when the flower has dried and fallen off. Gently but firmly lift the stem and the vine together with one hand, the pumpkin with the other, and slowly rotate the position of the fruit without using undue force. You may have to cut or loosen a few surrounding tendrils before lifting. At this point, pumpkin "complexion" can be helped by slipping a shingle between the young pumpkin and the soil. This prevents scarring or bruising as the pumpkin grows and rotting if the soil becomes too soggy. Wear gloves; those vines are prickly; and take care not to crease or snap the vine.
Spooky Pumpkin Many people, especially kids, like to personalize their pumpkins -- inscribe their names or draw a picture or a face on one of their growing treasures. Perhaps it has something to do with the urge to establish ownership, engage in primitive tribal scarring, or simply to co-create with nature. Wait until the pumpkin is about 3 to 4 weeks old or developed enough to have smooth, slightly toughened skin (all fuzz long gone). Any blunt tool will do; a large nail works fine or even a ball point pen. Break the skin and don't penetrate more than 1/8 inch. There will be some "bleeding" for a few hours after surgery. Wipe the marking during the next few hours, and it should seal within a day. At first, it may be hard to see the results; but the scar will show in time and will grow in size along with the pumpkin.

When should pumpkins be picked?

By late August, the days and nights grow colder and the green pumpkins begin to change colors like the fall leaves. As the fruit ripens, the vine displays the inevitable signs of age: older leaves become tattered, fewer flowers bloom and the energy of the plant seems to turn more inward, focusing on the fruit filled with the seeds that hold the promise of the future. Eventually, the scraggly vines lie like skeletons through the garden while the pumpkins -- fiery skulls that have trapped the energy of summer -- are scattered throughout. At this point, it is always good to invite a friend over to marvel at the fruit and to help to adjust to the shifting mood of the garden.
Giant Pumpkin Pumpkins are ready to harvest once the color of the fruit has deepened into one of the shades of the setting sun -- somewhere between deep yellow and fiery red, depending on the variety. Leave several inches of stem -- it helps them stay fresh -- and let them cure in the sun for 10 days. Cover them at night if there is danger of frost. Then, store the harvest in a dry cool place. With proper care, you may just have pumpkins until Spring.

There may be more questions. There are always more questions. Rest assured that pumpkins do not require answers. All through the growing season, these gregarious, lush plants display extraordinary vitality. As natives to the American continent, they reflect the American spirit -- generous, innovative, filled with energy, drawing resources and nourishment from every possible corner, and imposing their presence wherever they grow. And the fruit, the largest in the vegetable kingdom, has inspired cooks to prepare delicious food and kids to carve horrific faces. Hail to pumpkins -- nurturing body and arousing spirit. We are honored to witness your glory!

SOURCE:http://www.informeddemocracy.com/pumpkin/growing.html

Herbs to grow from seed

BASIL, SWEET (Ocimum basilicum) Both green and 'Dark Opal' basil are attractive plants for the garden. I prefer to plant the seed where it is to grow directly to -the garden in mid-May. Germination usually occurs in 7 to 10 days. Basil is not difficult to transplant. Grows to 18 inches; space 12 inches between plants. 'Dark Opal' has beautiful deep red foliage and lovely pink flowers and is excellent to use along a walk or as a solid bed for decoration in the garden. Basil is very good to use to flavor tomato juice and tomato pastes.

BORAGE (Borago officinalis) This has pinkish blossoms which turn blue like the perennial pulmonaria. It is an annual and should be planted directly to the garden in early May in the North. Growing to 2 feet it should be spaced 10 inches apart. Germinates in 7 -to 10 days. Resents transplanting except when quite small. It is excellent used in tossed salad to add a most elusive flavor.

CHERVIL (Anthriscus cerefolium) Although this plant will germinate in the fall and live over the winter I would advise the inexperienced gardener to grow it as an annual, sowing the seed to the garden in mid-May (in this area). Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 8 inches apart. Grows quickly and is mature in 6 weeks. Resents transplanting. Fresh leaves can be frozen in small packets after washing carefully. Excellent to flavor egg dishes.

CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) This is a perennial plant growing from bulblets. They are really very easy to grow from seed. Mine, started under the fluorescent lights as well as in the greenhouse in the spring germinated in 10 days. The tiny little plants look like fragile spears of grass. When transplanted they wilt slightly. Even during a continued drought they grow very well. Mature plants grow to 12, inches; space 6 inches apart. They are very hardy even in cold locations. Flowers are pretty enough so that chives can be grown as a border or in the rock garden. Fine in salads, egg dishes and sauces of all kinds. Potted up, chives will grow on a sunny windowsill in winter.

DILL (Anethum graveolens) This is an easily grown annual with feathery foliage. Blossoms are tiny and pale yellow. Grows to 21/2 feet in my garden and germinates in 7 to 10 days planted at the same time as tender vegetables. Resents transplanting. May be spaced as close as 4 inches apart. Self-sows readily. Fine for use in pickling and to flavor meats.

LAVENDER (Lavandula). I have had excellent success with germinating seeds of lavender giving a four-week pre-chilling period in the coldframe before bringing into the greenhouse with germination in 14 days. This year sown under the lights the seeds germinated in 15 days with no pre-chilling period. This is a hardy perennial with gray foliage and spikes of fragrant lavender flowers, which when dried are used to perfume the linen chest and for sachets. Dry easily when hung free in a dry garage or attic.

MARJORAM, SWEET (Majorana hortensis) This is a perennial in frost-free sections of the South but is grown as a hardy annual in the North. Sow seed indoors with germination in 7 to 10 days. Grows to 12 inches; space 6 inches apart. Plants may be potted up and grown in the greenhouse or sunny window over -the winter. Adds a delicate flavor to lamb, fish, salads and soups.

MINT (Mentha spicata) This mint is very easy to grow. It is a hardy perennial and spreads by root stolons. Sown indoors seed germinates in 10 to 15 days. It grows to 2 feet and is rather sprawling, in habit. Space 12 inches apart. Is at its best in good rich soil. Fine to use for mint jelly and in mint juleps, lemonade and other fruit drinks.

SAGE (Saivia officinalis) This is a hardy perennial in our location and is often grown in gardens for its pretty foliage and spikes of bluish flowers. Seed sown indoors germinates in 14 days. Grows to 2 feet and should be spaced 12 inches apart. Can be sown outdoors in May with germination in 21 to 30 days. Fine herb for dressings for chicken, turkey, pork and for flavoring sausages.

SAVORY, SUMMER (Satureja bortensis) This is an easily grown annual being best planted in mid-May in our location directly to the garden where it is to grow with germination in 7 to 10 days. Grows to 12 inches tall; space 5 or 6 inches apart. Good to flavor fish dishes, beans and soups.

SESAME (Sesamum orientale) This herb has whitish colored leaves and pretty pink flowers. Needs warmth for germination and should not be planted into the garden until -the soil and air are very warm; about 70 degrees. This would be in late May in our location. Germination will take place in 3 to 7 days. Although they grow 21/2 to 3 feet they need but 9 or 10 inches between plants as they do not branch. Seeds are used to flavor breads, crackers and cookies.

THYME (Thymus vulgaris) This is a hardy perennial being of somewhat shrubby growth. Leaves are cut for drying before the blossoms are open. It is easily grown from seed sown indoors with germination in 21 to 30 days. Grows slowly when young. Grows to 12. inches; space 8 inches apart. It needs rich soil. Thyme is used for flavoring soups and poultry dressing.

SOURCE:http://www.backyardgardener.com/

Grow Herbs on your Windowsill

You can bring your herb garden indoors for the winter, by planting a windowsill garden. Many herb plants grow quite easily in containers and require only minimal care. You'll be snipping fresh herbs in your kitchen throughout the winter.
Difficulty: Average
Time Required: 20 Minutes
Here's How:

1. Make sure you have a sunny windowsill where your herbs will survive. A south or southeast window would be perfect if it gets at least 5 hours of sun per day and is away from drafts.

2. Purchase some of your favorite small herb plants from your local nursery.

3. Get a container that is at least 6-12 inches deep. You can plant multiple herbs in a wide or long container or use at least a 6" pot for individual plants.

4. Use a soilless potting mix to avoid soil born diseases. Be sure the mix is light and will be well draining.

5. Put a 2-3 inch layer of potting mix into the bottom of your container.

6. Position your herb plants in the container.

7. Finish filling in with the potting mix, firming gently around the plants. Leave about an inch at the top of the container for watering.

8. Water sparingly. Herbs don't like to sit in wet soil.

9. Feed once a month with a fertilizer labeled for use on edibles.

10. Allow the plants some time to acclimate. Once you see new growth, you can start using your herbs.

Tips:

1. Choose herbs that don't grow too wide or tall. Chives, basil, lavender, parsley, mint and thyme are good choices.
2. Fluorescent lights can be used if you don't have a sunny window. They will need to be placed close to the plants (18") and kept on for about 10 hours/day.
3. Snip and use your plants often to encourage them to grow full and bushy.
4. Never trim more than 1/3 of the plants foliage.

What You Need:

* Herb Plants
* Pots or containers
* Soilless Potting Mix
* Fertilizer

SOURCE:By Marie Iannotti, About.com

Lettuce

Growing Fresh Salad Greens in Your Vegetable Garden
Lettuce crops (Lactuca sativa) have been growing in popularity over recent years and for good reason:

* Lettuce is one of those crops whose fresh picked taste simply can’t be equaled by anything you can buy at the grocers.
* Most lettuce varieties are not yet grown commercially in any quantity .
* Greens don’t travel or store well.
* No store could possibly stock the amount of lettuce varieties you have available to grow.
* Greens are relatively easy to grow.
* Greens are high in mineral, vitamin and fiber content.
* It is cheaper to grow your own lettuce than pay premium prices for gourmet greens.


Starting Lettuce

* Lettuce is a cool season crop and consequently is best grown in either spring or fall.
* However, lettuce likes a temperature around 70o to germinate, so early plantings should be started as plugs.
* Lettuce seeds need light to germinate. Just barely cover the seed with soil.
* After a couple of weeks check to see if the roots have branched out to the sides of the plug. If so, they are hardy enough to go in the ground.
* Don’t let the seedlings get too large before placing them out.


Care & Feeding of Green Crops

* If you have fertile soil, you shouldn’t need to feed lettuce plants, unless you plant the “cut and come again” varieties all summer. This is one crop where extra nitrogen can’t hurt, since all you want from the plant is leaf.
* Well-rotted manure or compost is ideal.
* The plants will need regular watering, as lettuce tends to have a shallow root system.
* Don’t keep the area damp or use mulch or you will be inviting slugs.
* A lettuce crop is ideal for the intensive gardening method which is getting a lot of attention lately, because it matures rapidly, can be planted quite closely and can be planted in succession if you choose seasonal varieties.
* Lettuce can even be grown in containers or used as a decorative border.
* If your lettuce looks like it’s about to bolt, pull it out of the ground, roots and all, and replant. This shock to its system will slow its growth. Keep well watered.


Harvesting Greens

* For the longest harvest, direct seed or transplant every 7-10 days.
* When direct seeding, seeds can either be broadcast and planted in wide rows or spaced 8-12" apart. Spacing is best if you want it to mature into heads.
* If you are going for heads, be sure to harvest before the head starts to elongate. That means it’s ready to bolt and the flavor will suffer.
* And be forewarned, maturing to a head takes time and therefore makes it more difficult to grow without bolting than the looseleaf varieties.

SOURCE:By Marie Iannotti, About.com

Tomatoes - How to Grow Tomatoes in the Home Vegetable Garden

Indoor Vegetable Gardening Tomato Tips Tomato Gardening Grow Tomatoes Tomato Growing
Overview:
Although tomatoes are technically a fruit, they are the poster plant for vegetable gardening. A vine ripened tomato is what every backyard vegetable grower plans for. Once thought to be poisonous, they are now the most popular vegetable to grow and eat. There are literally thousands of varieties, many bearing little resemblance to the round, red orbs we’re used to seeing in the supermarket. From grape-sized to fluted and pear shaped - red, green, purple, yellow, orange and pink - tomatoes defy one single description.
Latin Name:Lycopersicon esculentum
Common Name:Tomato
Hardiness Zone:Grown as an annual.
Exposure:Full sun.

Size:
Varies greatly with variety, growing conditions and whether the variety is determinate or indeterminate. All tomatoes are vining plants that we generally grow upright and staked. Expect your tomato to get at least 3' tall and some will grow to 8' or more.

Days to Harvest:
Varies greatly and is something to keep in mind when you are choosing which types to grow. Tomatoes are often labeled either “Short Season” or “Long Season”. Gardeners with short growing seasons should look for varieties that mature within 55 - 70 days. Long season gardeners have a wider selection to choose from, but do best with varieties that keep producing in hot temperatures. Small cherry and grape sized tomatoes are usually quick to mature and ripen.

With tomatoes, "Days to maturity" refers to the amount of days from the time you transplant outdoors. You’ll also need to leave 4-6 weeks to start your tomato seeds indoors. Also, grape and cherry tomatoes tend to mature the smaller the variety, the faster it matures. There are also varieties that
Description:
Tomatoes are pulpy, tangy fruits within more meaty flesh. They are in the Solanaceae or nightshade family, along with peppers, eggplants, potatoes and belladonna. The leaves are poisonous to humans, but the fruits are not.

Leaves: The leaves and stems are hairy and sticky, leaving a yellow-green stain on hands and clothes, as well as a distinct tomato scent.

Flowers: Small yellow flowers with 5 pointed lobes, usually in a cluster of 3-12.

Fruits: Fruits can be round, pear-shaped, oval, fluted or oxheart and come in an array of colors from pale pink to deep purple and including yellow, green and orange.
Suggested Varieties:
Where to begin? There are thousands of varieties of tomatoes. To grow the widest variety, you would need to start your plants from seed. Experimenting is fun, but it’s wise to start with tomatoes that are suited to your area. Some tomatoes do better in long, hot seasons and others are more suited to cooler climates. A reliable local nursery should sell plants that would be ideal for your area. You can also contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for a list of recommended varieties.

Some Classics:

* Patio: Patio, Pixie. Tiny Tim
* Small Fruits: Red and Yellow Pear, Small Fry, Sweet 100.
* Early: Celebrity, Glacier, Jet Star
* Main Season: Celebrity, Big Boy and Better, Heatwave, Roma (paste type) and Rutgers
* Late Ace, Beefmaster, Mule Team
* Heirlooms: Brandywine, Purple Cherokee, Zapotec


Harvesting:
Tomatoes are their most flavorful when they are allowed to fully ripen on the vine. A ripe tomato will slip off the vine with a gentle tug. Many tomato varieties grown in home gardens are thin skinned and can be easily bruised if handled roughly. Store tomatoes at room temperature.

SOURCE:By Marie Iannotti, About.com

Growing Cucumbers of All Shapes and Sizes

"Cucumber 'Green Fingers'"

Cucumber 'Green Fingers' is a dwarf, self-pollinating cucumber with a thin skin that doesn't need peeling.

Most of us think of cucumbers as green, seed-filled slices on a salad. Long, green cucumbers are by far the most popular for home gardens, but there are hundreds of cucumber varieties, including round, yellow cucs, skinny English cucs and exotic, ridged Armenian cucumbers. Most Americans have never tasted a crunchy cucumber, fresh from the garden and beautiful without a coat of wax to shine it up.

Cucumbers are in the same family as squash and melons. A popular way to categorize cucumbers is as either slicers or picklers. Pickling cucumbers can be eaten fresh, but they also hold their texture well in processing.

Size
Varies greatly with variety. Vining cucumbers can easily cover 4-6' of ground. Bush varieties don’t travel as far, but they can spread out 4' in every direction.

Days to Harvest:
Varies with variety, but most begin producing within 48 to 70 days, from seed.

When and How to Harvest
Cucumbers are best harvested slightly immature. Mature cucumbers yellow and start to decline and become bitter. Seeded varieties will become develop more of the seed pulp, the longer you leave them on the vine. Check your seed package or label for the recommended harvesting size for your variety.

Since cucumber vines are scratchy and unpleasant to touch, cucumbers are usually cut from the vine. You can twist the stem and snap the cucumbers off the vines, but pulling them off can bring the whole vine with you.

Description:

Leaves: Cucumber leaves are somewhat triangular in shape, with pointed lobes. The texture of the whole plant is rough and prickly.

Flowers: Yellow and usually monoecious, requiring both male and female blossoms to produce fruits. Newer hybrids are being bred to be parthenocarpic, with only female blossoms that don’t require pollination.

Fruits: Fruits can vary from an inch or two long to over a foot. There are even round cucumbers. The outer skin is usually green or yellow and can be tender or tough. Most varieties are sprinkled with spines, which wipe off easily. Parhenocarpic varieties are seedless.
Suggested Varieties:

* Marketmore - One of the most prolific, easy growing varieties.

* Lemon - A round, pale yellow heirloom. They have a generous amount of seeds, but they're nice scooped out and used as an edible serving bowl.

* Armenian - Thin skinned and crunchy. Can be stripped or ridged.

* English or Hot House Cucumbers - Thin skinned and mild taste. Require a long growing season.

* Bush Champion, Spacemaster, Bushmaster... - Anything with "bush" in its name is great for growing in containers.

Pests & Diseases:
Insects

* Squash vine borers bore into the base of the plant and cut off its circulation

* Squash bugs feed on the plants, especially young seedlings.

* Cucumber beetles feed on the plants and carry and transmit bacterial wilt.


Diseases

* Bacterial wilt, carried in by cucumber beetles, will kill a cucumber plant.

* Powdery mildew is unslightly and weakens plants, but they can survive it.

Growing Tips:

Soil: Cucumbers like a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH of about 5.5 to 7.0.

Planting: Cucumbers are easily direct-seeded in the garden. You can find cucumber seedlings, but they transplant best when still young.

Cucumbers are heat lovers. Plants both seeds and plants after all danger of frost. Allow the soil to warm and dry out some.

If you are starting seeds indoors, seed them about 3-4 weeks before you plan to transplant. Sowing in peat or paper pots will lessen transplant shock.

Plant seeds about ½" deep. You can plants cucumbers in long rows, “hills” or clusters of 3-4 seeds sown within inches of each other.

* Rows: Final spacing should be about 8-12" apart, but can be sown slightly closer and thinned, once you see how many have germinated. If you plan to trellis your vines, you can leave them a few inches closer.

* Hills: Space vining cucumbers in hills 5 - 6' apart. Bush types can be spaced 2-3' apart.


Maintenance:
Water: Cucumbers are mostly water. Give the vines at least an inch of water per week, especially when fruits are present. Don’t let them sit in wet soil.

Feeding: Vine crops tend to be heavy feeders and cucumbers are no exception. Start with a rich soil and side dress with compost once the plants start blooming. Give them another dressing or dose of fertilizer about 3-4 weeks later, in mid-season.
Common Problems Growing Cucumbers

Not Setting Fruit: Poor pollination could be caused by bad weather, lack of pollinators or a lack of female blossoms. Female blossoms tent to start flowering later in the season than male blossoms.

Bitterness: Some people say cucumbers are more bitter near the skin and toward the blossom end. Breeders have developed varieties that aren't bitter, so trying a different variety can make all the difference.

SOURCE:
By Marie Iannotti, About.com